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Tourism & Travel

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Tourism & Travel

 

Tourism and Travel in Eritrea: A Journey Through Time, Culture, and Landscape

Tourism is one of the largest and most vital sectors in the global economy. Each year, over a billion people travel internationally while domestic tourism continues to expand. The industry contributes significantly to global GDP and constitutes a substantial portion of the world’s total exports. Numerous studies have identified tourism as a key driver of economic growth. Though estimates differ, the sector is thought to employ around one in ten people globally while supporting the livelihoods of hundreds of millions more through income-generating opportunities.

According to Eritrea’s Tourism Proclamation No.152/2006, “tourism” means the business of providing travel, accommodation, hospitality, and information services to tourists on a commercial basis and other ancillary services that facilitate tourists' needs.

Eritrea, a country rich in history, culture, and natural beauty, offers tourists a chance to experience an array of diverse landscapes, climates, and traditions. From the pristine shores of Massawa on the Red Sea to the highlands of Asmara and the serene mountains of Keren, Eritrea is a treasure trove of attractions that cater to every type of traveler. This travel guide will take you on a journey through the most iconic cities and regions of Eritrea, highlighting their unique characteristics, histories, and what makes them so enticing to visitors.

Although Eritrea is far from the largest in terms of geographic area (covering an area of approximately 125,000 km²), it boasts a wide range of tourist attractions. Perhaps the most popular and well-known is the capital, Asmara, officially recognized as a World Heritage site by UNESCO and described as “an exceptional example of early modernist urbanism at the beginning of the 20th century and its application in an African context”. Across Asmara, over 400 modernist buildings survive, many well-preserved. These include Fiat Tagliero, Cinema Impero, the Central Post Office, and the bowling alley, to name a few. In addition, Asmara features an assortment of historic public and private buildings, including cinemas, shops, banks, religious structures, public and private offices, industrial facilities, and residences, representing some of the finest examples of Art Deco, Cubist, Expressionist, Futurist, Neoclassical architecture.

Beyond architecture, Asmara offers a delicious, unique culinary experience marked by a rich diversity of dishes, a warm, hospitable climate, a polite and welcoming local population, and invariable peace and security.

Massawa: The Pearl of the Red Sea

Massawa, Eritrea's second-largest city, was its first capital and is one of the country's oldest urban areas. Known as the "Pearl of the Red Sea," Massawa’s history as a vital port city makes it a focal point for travelers interested in maritime heritage. Walking through Massawa's narrow alleyways lined with elegant arcades and grand balconies transports visitors to another world, evoking a sense of timelessness. This atmospheric city serves as a gateway to and from the Red Sea, a maritime corridor that has historically been a crossroads for cultures, religions, and commerce.

The port city of Massawa has seen the ebb and flow of countless foreign powers. Its strategic location made it a prime target for invaders, including Arabs, Portuguese, Turks, Egyptians, Italians, British, and Ethiopians. The scars of these occupations and wars are still visible, especially from the brutal war for Eritrean independence. Despite this turbulent past, Massawa retains its exotic and cosmopolitan charm, making it a unique destination for tourists.

Massawa was once billed as the "Red Sea Riviera" due to its sun-drenched beaches, coral reefs, and crystal-clear waters. The city is also the gateway to over 350 islands, where visitors can escape to private hideaways, swim in pristine waters, and explore colorful, unblemished coral reefs. The Dahlak Archipelago, located off the coast of Massawa, is one of the best destinations in the world for scuba diving, offering adventurers a tranquil and memorable experience. Despite its often scorching temperatures, Massawa’s appeal lies in the many ways to escape the heat—whether it’s lounging on its beautiful beaches or exploring the underwater treasures of the Red Sea.

Asmara: A Living Museum

Journeying westward from Massawa brings you to Asmara, Eritrea’s capital and one of Africa’s most captivating cities. The road from Massawa to Asmara is a dramatic roller-coaster ride, with an elevation gain of over 2,500 meters in just 115 kilometers. This route is often described as "three seasons in two hours" due to the striking changes in climate and scenery along the way. As you climb from the hot, flat plains into the cool, green belt of the eastern escarpment, the scenery becomes increasingly lush and mountainous.

Asmara is perched high on the plateau at the edge of this escarpment and stands in stark contrast to the coastal city of Massawa. With its Mediterranean-like atmosphere, Asmara’s beauty is renowned across the continent. Though human settlement in the region dates back centuries, the modern city of Asmara began to take shape in 1897 when the Italians decided to make it their colonial capital. It soon became a canvas for young Italian architects, who transformed it into an "urban utopia" of architectural elegance. Asmara’s striking blend of neo-Romanesque, Victorian, and Rationalist architecture earned it the nickname "La Piccola Roma" (Little Rome).

Asmara is not just a city frozen in time; it is a vibrant, living museum. Its wide, tree-lined streets, well-tended public gardens, and white stone buildings create a picturesque setting for a leisurely walking tour. The seamless integration of its remarkable architecture with the traditional Eritrean lifestyle is part of what makes Asmara so enchanting. The city exudes an unhurried pace of life, where the warm hospitality of its people is as inviting as its perfect weather. From its Art Deco cinemas to its elegant villas, Asmara is a city that inspires not only architects but also tourists, writers, and artists alike.

Another must-see is the Tank Graveyard, located in Asmara. To most, it would simply appear to be a huge scrap heap overflowing with rusted tanks, trucks, and other wrecked vehicles, along with spent ammunition and destroyed war materiel. In reality, however, the Tank Graveyard is much, much more. The destroyed military hardware that fills the graveyard are remnants from Eritrea’s long war of independence when Eritrean freedom fighters took on and defeated Africa’s largest, best-equipped army.

Although throughout the duration of the protracted conflict, Ethiopia was heavily backed by the Cold War superpowers, the US and USSR (sometimes simultaneously), as well as many other countries, including, among others, Israel, East Germany, Cuba, and Yemen, Eritreans received no substantive international economic, political, or military support. They mostly relied on themselves. Since independence, the Tank Graveyard has stood out not only as a proud marker of national liberation and freedom but also as a powerful symbol and testament to Eritreans’ resilience in the face of seemingly insurmountable odds.

Keren: A Nest in the Mountains

If one continues westward from Asmara, Eritrea's capital, the landscape gradually transforms. The eastern escarpment, with its rugged and dramatic cliffs, gives way to a gentler, wider slope as the journey extends westward. Nestled 90 kilometers along this route, encircled by a stunning mountain chain, lies the beautiful city of Keren. Perched at a high altitude, Keren enjoys a moderate and refreshing climate throughout the year, making it a pleasant destination no matter the season.

The city is surrounded by mountainous terrain in all its districts and outskirts, contributing to its unique charm. Keren is bathed in bright sunlight for most of the year, except for a few weeks in summer and spring when the rains come, and clouds cast their shade over the valleys. This seasonal change brings a refreshing contrast, with moderate summers that offer cool breezes and crisp and invigorating winters. The climate is just one of many reasons why Keren has long been celebrated for its natural beauty and tranquility.

Keren is not just a picturesque city—it is also steeped in history and cultural richness. The city’s strategic location and its hospitable environment have long made it an important hub of commerce and culture. Since the days of Italian colonial rule, Keren has been a favored weekend retreat for the people of Asmara, drawn to its serene atmosphere and cooler climate. Today, it stands as the third largest town in Eritrea, continuing to thrive as a center of commerce and a gateway to the western regions.

The city is a testament to the ingenuity of its people and their diverse, vibrant culture. Eritrea, known for its mosaic of nine ethnic groups and two main religions—Islam and Christianity—offers a harmonious blend of traditions, languages, and customs. This diversity is reflected in Keren's lively markets, traditional festivals, and the resilience of its people.

Edward Denison, a traveler who chronicled his journey from Cape Town to Alexandria, Egypt, was particularly struck by the hospitality and warmth of the Eritrean people. In his writings, he noted how, despite his extensive travels, he had never encountered such a beautiful city as Asmara, nor had he experienced such generosity from complete strangers. His reflections capture the essence of Eritrea’s charm—a land where visitors feel an immediate connection and sense of belonging.

Beyond Keren, Eritrea’s rich tapestry of historical and cultural landmarks invites exploration. The ancient ruins of Kohaito and Metera, significant archaeological sites, and centuries-old monasteries provide a window into the region’s past. The city is also home to the Sahaba Shrine, considered by some to be the site of Africa's first mosque, further adding to its historical significance.

For those drawn to nature, Eritrea's landscapes are equally compelling. From the breathtaking eastern escarpment to the stunning coastline, Eritrea offers a range of tourist attractions. The pristine beaches, unblemished coral reefs, and offshore islands of the Dahlak Archipelago offer some of the finest scuba diving experiences in the world, attracting adventure seekers from all corners of the globe. Whether one chooses to relax in the clear, clean waters or explore the vibrant marine life beneath the surface, Eritrea promises memorable, peaceful, and enjoyable experiences.

Keren’s renown extends beyond its natural beauty and historical significance. The city is also celebrated for its metalwork, an art form that has been honed over generations. The craftsmanship of Keren’s artisans, who produce intricate and functional metal pieces, reflects a deep-rooted tradition of creativity and skill.

Situated in an upland basin, Keren’s unique geographical position at an altitude of over 1,300 meters within a semi-arid region lends the city its distinct character. With its mountain vistas, moderate climate, and rich cultural heritage, Keren remains a jewel in Eritrea’s landscape—a city where history, nature, and culture converge harmoniously.

Nakfa: a symbol of resilience

One truly awe-inspiring place to visit in Eritrea is Nakfa. The “place of resilience” and the EPLF’s mountain fortress during the long liberation struggle, Nakfa is a small town of vast historical significance. It represents a symbol of Eritrean determination and resistance to colonial domination. In 1977, after having seemingly been on the verge of victory, the EPLF strategically retreated to Nakfa due to the massive intervention of the former USSR. At Nakfa, they built heavy fortifications, including a forty-kilometer-long, labyrinth-like defensive trench in the surrounding mountains. Despite repeated attempts and extensive foreign support, the Ethiopian army was unable to dislodge the Eritreans from Nakfa. Between 1978 and 1981, the Dergue unleashed five large-scale military campaigns against the EPLF, none of which resulted in success.

The numerous trenches and underground establishments constructed by the liberation fighters in Nakfa enabled every fighter to practice the making, designing, directing, and covering of the whole process. The canals run in a zigzag based on the strategic importance of the area to control the enemy’s sight, direction, and distance. The average extension of the trenches and canals is estimated to reach about 180 kilometers in the north-south direction. Based on the information given by Division 61, there are about 1500 underground houses in and around the town.

In general, the Nakfa front was divided into two wings, right and left wings, owing to geographical directions, strategic military coding, and structural locations of the area. The Nakfa-Afabet road became the reference point to divide either wing, and familiar trenches from both wings assume names bearing traditional references by freedom fighters. The Right Wing of the Nakfa front includes trenches such as Fidel ‘Pe’ (as in the Tigrigna alphabet), Taba Selam (peace hill), Globe (as in the orbit of the earth), Rigole (penalty spot), Wancha (cup), Denden, Galdenden, Endanepal, Farnello, Testa, Sewra (revolution), Sembel, Afncha (nose), Teateq, Kubub Baray and Sege. The Left Wing also extends to the left direction over the chain of mountains and terrains with ample traditional referents to the trenches constructed during the perpetual fighting. Some well-known of these include Merkebna, Medat, May Kelashin, Arew, Teamamen, Nakura, Anda-sga, Otolo, Sulfur, Volley-ball, Agadu, Enda Krbit, Tiks, Spartacus, Hamukushti, Aibre and Cubania.

The names of the trenches and underground establishments were based on a variety of aspects and circumstances, such as natural obstacles, functional attributes of the mountains, heroic deeds that might have been carried out at that particular place, distance from enemy’s positions as well as activities in the Nakfa Front. Most of the trenches, therefore, assume names given by freedom fighters. ´´Rigole´´ (as in the penalty spot in football), for instance, is a referent to imply the nearest trench to the enemy in the front, while ´´ Fidel Pe“ resembles the alphabet ´´Pe“ in the Tigrigna script. Other fortresses and trenches in the Nakfa Front have similar derivation and speculations of their names.

Today, Nakfa is a calm, serene town that offers visitors not only a pleasant trip and some breathtaking landscapes but also a moving look at one of the country's most important chapters from its remarkable past.

Dekemhare: A Glimpse of Colonial Industry

South of Asmara, approximately 40 kilometers away, lies the town of Dekemhare. This rural town was a favorite settlement for the Italians during their colonization of Eritrea due to its mild climate and fertile soil. Dekemhare was initially designed as an industrial and agricultural hub, with its fertile land used to grow grapes for wine production as well as other fruits and vegetables. The remnants of this colonial past are still visible today in the town’s old factories, such as the Red Sea General Mills and the Dekemhare pasta factory.

During the colonial era, Dekemhare became a divided town, with the northern part serving as the bustling center for the local population and the southern part catering to the Italians, featuring elegant apartment buildings adorned with grapevines. Today, Dekemhare remains a vibrant town, with its markets, boutiques, and cafes creating a lively atmosphere for both locals and visitors. The town’s history as a center for resistance during the Eritrean war for independence is also significant, as it was the site of some of the earliest and most decisive battles in the liberation struggle.

Beyond its cities, Eritrea is a land of stunning natural beauty and cultural diversity. The country is home to nine ethnic groups, each with its own unique traditions, languages, and customs. Eritrea’s cultural festivals, which celebrate the nation’s rich heritage, are vibrant and colorful events that showcase the harmony between its different communities.

Eritrea’s natural attractions are just as diverse as its people. The breathtaking landscapes of the eastern escarpment, with their steep cliffs and verdant valleys, offer a paradise for nature lovers and adventurers. The ancient ruins of Kohaito and Metera, as well as the historic monasteries and mosques scattered throughout the country, provide glimpses into Eritrea’s long and storied past. The Sahaba Shrine believed to be one of the first mosques in Africa, is a testament to the deep religious history that has shaped Eritrea’s cultural landscape.

The country’s coastline is dotted with beautiful beaches and coral reefs, providing endless opportunities for sunbathing, swimming, and diving. The Dahlak Archipelago, with its remote islands and unspoiled underwater ecosystems, is one of the world’s top scuba-diving destinations. Here, adventure tourists can explore vibrant coral reefs, encounter diverse marine life, and enjoy a peaceful retreat from the hustle and bustle of everyday life.

Eritrea is a destination like no other. Its mix of ancient history, colonial heritage, diverse cultures, and breathtaking natural beauty creates a unique travel experience that is both enriching and memorable. From the sun-kissed shores of Massawa to the architectural wonders of Asmara and the tranquil mountains of Keren, Eritrea offers something for every type of traveler. Whether you are seeking adventure, relaxation, or a deep cultural experience, Eritrea invites you to explore its hidden treasures and discover the beauty that lies within this remarkable country.